Round The Table

Question: How Many puppies must I sell before its woth having my own website?

I go back to the question, what problem are you trying to solve. When I think about what I want my website to accomplish, I think of a few things.

Answered By: Local Dog Breeder

 Number one is I want to be relevant and legit. I think having a site or web page serves as that for customers, as they can feel good about knowing that I exist on the internet, which is a big deal to a lot of people.

The second thing I want a site to accomplish is to provide access to consistent, professional, and available information. I want for someone to be able to go to my site and get all of the info they need, which can include health testing reports, adult info and pictures, some video footage, and anything else that will persuade them to buy my puppies over the next guy’s. Also part of this includes automation. I want to be able to have my customers place a deposit and even full payment on my site, DocuSign their paperwork, and receive the right notifications at the right time, like pick up instructions, what to expect when purchasing a puppy, etc.

I feel like all of the above needs to happen in a simple way, and what I don’t want is a big fancy website with a lot of pages, funnels, and redundancy. Here’s the thing though, what works for me may not work for you, so be sure to analyze what your goals are, and then choose a program that works well for those goals.

Someone wants to buy my puppy, but wants to pay more than the asking price and then wants me to pay their freight company with the extra. Is this legit?

Answered by: Consumer Safety Group

A few common scams that we see in today’s market is someone wanting to buy a puppy for more than the asking price. Often what happens in a payment like this is the customer wants to pay for a puppy and the shipping so they make the check out to be more than what the amount is and tell you to keep the extra or tip the shipper. This is most common, with a check that they want to deliver the next day via UPS bank which may not notice that it’s an invalid check for up to a few weeks and by then the customer may be long gone. The next common scam I want to point out is that the customer is looking for a quick transaction, often placing the full payment for the puppy right away with very few questions about it. Often in this case the customer wants the puppy shipped within the next day or two which may be the result of stolen credit card information. What we recommend is having at least a down payment made to hold the puppy and closer to the date of the puppy being picked up or shipped have the final payment made but have all payments made one or more business days ahead of a puppy leaving for its new home. The final common scam is simply using fake cash, so it’s always a great idea to have a money marker on hand. 

One thing we recommend to help in scam free transactions is Consumer Safety Group where we are dedicated to safe transactions ensuring that your payments are safe, easy, and secure. The orders are placed online to Consumer Safety Group and each order is checked to verify that the transaction is valid and not a scam then that money is paid out to the Sellers through direct deposit.

Cryptocurrency Scam concept. Stacked crypto coins and wooden blocks with text. Copy space

Does anyone have a dog that barks when you let them outside? Not like barking at things outside but at me. I have tried to let her go out by herself and she barks like crazy at me so I try going out with her and she just barks louder. The only tip I’ve gotten is to turn my back and ignore her until she stops but that doesn’t work. She is a 10yr old Yorkie and this started when she was about 1 yr old.

Answered by: Donna Chandler 

If your dog has been doing this since she was 1 year of age and is now 10 years of age, then I would say that your dog has anxiety, along with getting your attention which is a reward for barking. Even if you yell at her to quit, you are still giving her attention for barking. I would recommend that you teach her the “Leave-it” command. It means to stop doing it, NO, be quiet and don’t touch it!

How do you teach “Leave-it” and “Take?” I would start this command in the house. Have your dog on a leash and say, “You want a treat” and then hold the treat about 6-inches from her mouth. When she goes for the treat then pull back the leash (Don’t be too harsh) and tell her to “Leave-it”. You will most likely have to pull back on the leash several times while repeating the command “Leave-it”. Once she has stopped going after the treat then say her name and put the treat to your face (this gets her to look at you) then say “Take” and give her the treat (Treats are no bigger than a cheerio.)

Repeat this several times and a few times throughout the day. After a couple of days practicing this then go outside with her and repeat the exercise of “Leaveit and Take.” You have now changed what happens when you go outside. Then go on a walk and repeat the exercise 2-3 times on your walk. Walking calms dogs down and their anxiety begins to become less. See how this goes for you and check back with me in a week with an update. There are meds for anxiety and they are very effective, but let’s see if behavior modification works first.

I have a Golden Retriever Female that was bred to multiple males, and would like to find out which male sired which puppy. Is there a way I can test for that?

Answered by: Embark

Yes, there is. If you test both sires, the dam, and the puppies, we are able to tell her which puppies came from which sire. The best test to use would be our Embark for Breeders test. It has a turnaround time of 2-4 weeks, so it’s possible to do it before the puppies get too old.

I have a female that has run two decent heats, and we bred her both times with AI “successfully.” Both times she did not have puppies. I got some of Revival’s Problem Female and started giving that, and don’t you think, she is currently running the best heat she has had yet! Here’s the dilemma. I have a younger male that I know is proven, but he’s not very aggressive. He’s just not getting the job done alone, and if I try to help, he’s no longer interested. Would you recommend AI or SI, or would you let it go and see what happens?

Answered by: Thomas Shwartz 

If the female is going into heat roughly every 6 to 7 months, I would not be worried at all about trying to put her on any pills or medicine for her heat cycle. That is the standard time for the female to go into heat. AI, if done correctly, is just as good if not better than natural because you can add semen extender and also increase your odds by doing TCI (where you insert a camera into the female) I would not recommend SI unless you know for a fact that the female is on her last days of her heat cycle. One of the best ways to know this would be to get her tested with a progesterone test strip.

As for the stud, if you believe that the female is going to be hard to breed for whatever reason, it is best to keep the stud and the female separated so that the stud does not get discouraged and simply give up. My recommendation would be to keep them separated until about day 8 or 9 (as long as you know for a fact day 1 of her bleeding is her true day 1). This will cause the stud to have much stronger interest in the female. 

As for the stud, if it is a situation where the stud is much smaller than the female or the female is very scared, nervous or aggressive, then it is best to do AI or TCI. If the stud then gives up when you try to help him to breed the female, it is best to separate them, give them a small break, and when you put them back together, try to AI them. Often times if the stud has a good relationship with the owner, it is not hard to get an extraction. However, if AI is new to the stud, it is definitely something that may take some practice and experience, as in the stud understanding the situation and performing successfully. If your stud is roughly around 40 Lbs. and for the 1st AI he gives 10 CCs, that is not bad at all! As time goes on and he becomes more experienced, you will have the potential to get anywhere from 15 CCs to 35 CCs.

What is the best age for neutering or spaying a pup or dog?

dog in mountains meadow

Answered By: Dr Marty Greer, Revival Animal Health

Wow, this is a tough question. Many veterinarians still recommend neutering and spaying at or under 6 months of age. However, more research is being published regularly showing that neutering or spaying after skeletal maturity or puberty (after the first heat cycle) is beneficial. In part this depends on the size and breed of the dog. The larger dogs are more likely to benefit more by waiting. The improvements in health include less osteosarcoma (bone cancer), hemangiosarcoma (spleen or blood vessel cancer), lymphosarcoma (lymph node cancer) and mast cell tumors, a form of skin cancer. In males, we also see less prostate cancer. We also see less obesity, in females less urinary incontinence, and less allergies, less thyroid disease, fewer cruciate ruptures and less hip dysplasia. By waiting, we do not protect against mammary cancer (rarely fatal), pyometra, benign prostatic hyperplasia, and testicular cancer (rarely fatal). 

If you can manage to avoid accidental breedings and if your dog does not frequently go to doggie day care or boarding, waiting is a healthier option for your dog, despite what you may have heard about spaying and neutering since the 1970s.

If a coworker’s dog has kennel cough, and he brings the dog to work and I get coughed on by the dog, how long does the germs live on me? I wash my hands and spray Lysol on my clothes and shoes, but I have dogs at home, so I am worried about spreading it to them?

Answered By: Dr Marty Greer, Revival Animal Health

Kennel cough is a group of bacterial and viral diseases, all of which can behave differently. Washing your hands and arms if not covered with your clothing is essential. My recommendation would be to spray your shoes and leave them in the garage or outside unless they are washable. Change your clothing and take a quick shower after returning home, before you contact your dogs. So on arrival home, leave your shoes in the garage, do not walk inside wearing them, head straight to the shower, and put your clothes directly into the laundry without any lapse in time or dog contact. Then you should be safe to be around your dogs.

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Round Table: Q and A Issue 6

I go back to the question, what problem are you trying to solve. When I think about what I want my website to accomplish, I think of a few things.

Round Table: Q and A

Round The Table Question: How does Parvo work and what can I do to prevent or treat it? Answered by: Dr. Aly Cohen Answer: Canine parvovirus is a highly contagious and dangerous virus that affects primarily young, unvaccinated dogs. The virus causes life-threatening vomiting, diarrhea and dehydration. Vaccination is crucial to minimize the spread and exposure to our canine companions.

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